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Whether it's understanding
gemological or jewelry terms in an
article you're reading or simply
gaining a greater understanding of
the world of jewelry and gemstones,
our Jewelry & Gem Dictionary is a
handy reference guide. And, unlike
most dictionaries, ours makes for
interesting reading all on its own!
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MABE PEARL
Mabe pearls are large, hemispherical cultured pearls
that grow attached to the inside shells of oysters.
Mabe pearls are used in earrings, pins, and rings.
MACHINE STAMPING
Machine stamping (also known as die-stamping) is a
process in which sheet metal is cut and shaped
between two dies, forming a pattern in relief. Two
steel dies are used, the male die has the design in
cameo (protruding); the female die has the design
hollowed out. The male die is put on top of the
metal, the female die is put on the underside of the
metal. The press is forcefully brought down onto the
dies and metal, forcing the metal into the shape of
the mold. Many medallions and mass-produced jewelry
findings are made this way.
MAHOGANY OBSIDIAN
Mahogany Obsidian (also called Apache tears) is
brownish obsidian. This glassy, lustrous mineral is
found in lava flows, and obsidian stones can be
massive. Obsidian is formed when viscous lava (from
volcanos) cools rapidly. Most obsidian is 70 percent
silica. Obsidian has a hardness of 5 and a specific
gravity of 2.35.
MAKEUP
Makeup is the material and chemical
composition of the gem.
MALACHITE
Malachite is an opaque semi-precious stone with
layers of deep green and light green. It is usually
found in copper mines; malachite is about 57%
copper. Malachite was used as jewelry thousands of
years ago by the ancients Egyptians. Malachite is
usually cabochon set in silver. Russian malachite
carvings were done in miniature and in large scale;
malachite was also inlaid in furniture. Malachite
has a hardness of 4 and a specific gravity of 3.80.
It is monoclinic; it has one two-fold axis of
symmetry. Malachite is sometimes coated with
colorless wax, oil, or hardening agents to increase
its durability and enhance its appearance.
MALLEABLE
Malleable metals are easily worked with a hammer or
a roller. Gold and sterling silver are very
malleable metals.
MALTESE CROSS
Maltese cross is a cross whose four equal-length
arms get larger the farther they get from the
center. The Maltese cross brooch above is by Weiss;
it has red paste stones and a Japanned finish.
MANDREL
A mandrel is a metal rod used to coil molten glass
in order to make a bead
MARCASITE
Marcasite is a shiny, metallic semi-precious stone.
It is actually iron pyrite. Marcasite is generally
faceted.
MARQUISE
Marquise cut stones have a shape like an oval with
two pointed ends. Note that the correct
pronunciation of "Mar-KEYS" not "Mar-KEY" which is
commonly heard.
MATINEE-LENGTH
A matinee-length necklace is a single strand that is
from 22 to 23 inches (56 to 58 cm) long.
Matinee-length generally refers to a string of
pearls that hangs to the top of the cleavage.
MATTE FINISH
A matte finish on a metal's surface is a soft,
lustrous finish that reduces the metal's
reflectivity.
MAW-SIT-SIT
Maw-sit-sit is a rare green gemstone that has
dark-green to black veining; it sometimes has white
spots. The stone is opaque to translucent.
Maw-sit-sit has a hardness of 6.0; the specific
gravity is 2.5 to 3.5. This stone is found in
Maw-sit-sit, Myanmar (Burma), and is often found
neat jadeite, but maw-sit-sit is not a type of jade.
Maw-sit-sit was first identified in 1963 by the
Swiss Gemologist Eduard Gubelin; the local called
the stone maw-sit-sit, and the name was retained.
Although its exact composition is still unknown,
Maw-sit-sit is composed of chromite, ureyite, chrome
jadeite, symplektite, chrome amphibole, and other
lighter minerals.
MELEE
A melee is a small diamond, under .20 carat.
MEMORY WIRE
Memory wire is a tough, stiff wire that retains its
shape. It is often used for necklaces and bracelets.
MICA
Mica is a soft, lightweight, transparent mineral
that cleaves into thin, elastic sheets (it has a
single perfect cleavage direction). It is used for
lampshades and electrical insulators. There are
about 30 different types of micas, ranging in color
from yellow to green to gray to violet to white to
brown. Mica has a hardness of 2.5 and a specific
density of about 3. Tiny mica particles give the
shimmer to aventurine (goldstone).
MICROCRYSTALLINE
Microcrystalline is a type of mineral structure in
which the crystals are so small that they can only
be seen using a microscope.
MICROMOSAIC
Micromosaics are pictures or decorations that are
made out of extremely small pieces (tiles) of stone,
glass or other materials. Italian micromosaics were
common souvenirs. Older examples are much more
intricate, have smaller mosaic tiles, and generally
have better workmanship.
MICRON
A micron is a unit of length equal to 0.001 mm
(millimeter).
MILANESE MESH
Milanese mesh (also known as Milanese work or
Milanese chain) is a an intricate mesh made from
spiral wires braided together. Milanese mesh is used
to make necklaces and bracelets.
MILK AND HONEY EFFECT
The milk and honey effect is one in which the
apparent coloring of a stone changes (from milky to
the color of honey) as the angle of the light
changes. When a light is shined on the stone, one
side of the stone is the color of milk and the other
is the color of honey. When the light changes
direction, the color effect also shifts. Cat's-eye
chrysoberyl can exhibit this milk and honey
phenomenon.
MILLEFIORI
Millefiori (meaning "thousand flowers" in Italian)
is glass that is formed from multiple canes of
colored glass that are fused together and cut
crosswise. Millefiori glass can also be made into
beads.
MILLEGRAIN
A millegrain (or millegrain setting) is a setting in
which the stone is secured by tiny beads [grains] of
metal or a band of metal that is decorated with tiny
beads of metal.
MILLIMETER
The unit of measure used to
determine a pearl or gemstone's
diameter, equal to about 0.04 inch.
MILLING
Milling is a process in which wood or metal is cut
while it either the material or the tool is
spinning. Symmetrical shapes and patterns are cut
into the material.
MINE CUT
Mine cut stones have a cushion-shaped girdle. This
type of cut was popular in the late 1800's.
MIXED CUT
A mixed cut in one in which the style of the facets
above and below the girdle are different. A standard
mixed cut is brilliant cut above and step cut below.
MOGUL EMERALD
These Indian emeralds were owned by Indian moguls
(like Shah Jahan, the builder of the Taj Mahal) and
were inscribed with sacred blessings.
MOHS SCALE
The Mohs Scale of Hardness measures a substance's
hardness, that is, how resistant it is to being
scratched. In the Mohs scale, which ranges from 1 to
10, one substance is harder than another if it can
scratch it. For example, a diamond (hardness = 10)
will scratch garnet (hardness = 6.5-7.5), but not
the other way around, so a diamond is harder than
garnet. This scale was invented by Austrian
mineralogist Friedrich Mohs (1773-1839).
MOISSANITE
Moissanite is a very hard mineral that was
discovered by Dr. Ferdinand Henri Moissan
(1852-1907), a French chemist and Nobel Prize winner
(Moissan did work on synthesizing diamonds and
discovered carborundum in 1891). He found tiny
amounts of Moissanite in the iron meteorite that was
found at Diablo Canyon (also called Meteor Crater)
in Arizona, USA. Moissanite ranges in color from
colorless to blue to green to yellow. Its chemical
makeup is Silicon Carbide (SiC); it is also called
Carborundum. Moisannite crystals are transparent to
translucent. Moissanite has a hardness of 9.25 (this
is almost as hard as diamond) and a specific gravity
of 3.1 - 3.2. Laboratory-grown Moissanite is sold as
a gemstone.
MOKUME-GANE
A Japanese metal-smithing technique which results in
a wood-like finish. Alternating layers of thin,
colored metals are laminated together. Patterns are
punched in the laminate, filed away or hammered.
This technique produces unique and delicate
patterns.
MOLDAVITE
Moldavite is a rare, glassy, translucent, dark green
gemstone. Moldavite is a silica-based tektite, a
mineral formed when a meteorite (a rock from space)
struck the Earth's surface and melted and fused the
surrounding rock. Moldavite is only found in Bohemia
(the Czech Republic) in the Ries Crater in the
Moldau River valley (which it was named for).
Moldavite was discovered in the late 1800's; the
meteorite from which it formed hit the Earth about
14.7 million years ago. Moldavite has a hardness of
5.5-6.6. Inclusions of gas bubbles and iron/nickel
spherules are common. This natural glass has been
used for jewelry, religious articles, and decorative
objects since prehistoric times.
MOLDED CAMEO
Molded cameos are cameos that are made by the
molding process and not by carving the material (as
traditional cameos are). Molded cameos are usually
made from plastic, glass, or porcelain that is
formed in a mold. Often, two colors of material are
used, one for the relief pattern (often depicting a
person or scene) and another for the background. The
molded cameo above is a Jasper ware porcelain cameo
made by the Wedgewood Company.
MONOCLINIC
Monoclinic minerals have a crystalline structure in
which there is one two-fold axis of symmetry. Jade,
Malachite and moonstone are monoclinic.
MOONSTONE
Moonstone (orthoclase) is a semi-translucent stone
that is made of albite and orthoclase feldspar. It
is usually whitish-blue, but can be colorless,
yellow, orange, gray, or even reddish. Moonstone is
usually set as a cabochon. Moonstone was very
popular early in the 20th century and was
extensively used in Art Nouveau jewelry. Moonstone
has a hardness of 6 and a specific gravity of 2.57.
It is monoclinic; it has one two-fold axis of
symmetry. Adularia is a common type of moonstone.
Oligoclase is another type of moonstone; Labradorite
and albite are rare forms.
MORGANITE
Morganite is a transparent to translucent pink
gemstone. It is a variety of beryl, Be3Al2(Si6O18)
that contains some manganese (giving the stone its
pink color). Morganite has a hardness of 7.5 - 8 and
a specific gravity of 2.71 - 2.90. It has poor
cleavage and is brittle. Morganite is often heat
treated to give the stone a purer pink color (and
remove any yellow spots). Morganite was named for J.
Pierpoint Morgan, the American industrialist and gem
collector. Morganite is found in Brazil, Madagascar,
Italy, Pakistan, Mozambique, Namibia, Zimbabwe, and
the USA (California, Maine, Connecticut, and North
Carolina
MOSAIC
Mosaics are pictures or decorations that are made
out of small pieces (tiles) of stone, glass or other
materials. Italian mosaics were common souvenirs.
Older examples are much more intricate, have smaller
mosaic tiles, and generally have better workmanship.
MOSS AGATE
Moss agate (also called Mocha stone in Britain and
the USA) is a green variety of agate. It is
chalcedony that has dendritic (tree-like) inclusions
of green (red or black) hornblende. The inclusions
often form beautiful patterns. Moss agate has a
hardness of 6.5-7 and a specific gravity of 2.6.
Green moss agate is found in India, and some other
locations.
MOTHER-OF-PEARL
Mother-of-pearl is the iridescent coating on the
inside of oyster shells. Mother-of-pearl is used for
jewelry, buttons, and other uses.
MOUKAITE
Moukaite is a semi-precious gemstone, a variety of
jasper from Australia. The color of moukaite varies
from red-browns to pinks, with gold and white bands.
MOURNING JEWELRY
Mourning jewelry is a type of jewelry worn when one
is mourning the loss of a loved one. It is often
black, subdued jewelry (often made of jet or black
glass and metal with a Japanned finish) or jewelry
that commemorates the dead (like hair jewelry or
cameos). After England's Queen Victoria's beloved
husband (and cousin) Albert died (in 1861), she went
into an extended period of mourning. During these
years, she wore black clothing and mourning jewelry.
English fashion was greatly influenced by this, and
mourning jewelry, especially jet, became quite
fashionable.
MYA YAY
Mya yay is the Burmese (Myanmar) name for the
highest quality translucent jadeite.
MYSTIC FIRE
Mystic fire (also called mystic topaz or rainbow
topaz) is topaz that has been color enhanced by
coating it with a fine layer of metal atoms (in a
process called vacuum deposition). This stone has
red, green, violet, and blue streaks. Mystic fire
has a hardness of 8.
SPJ's Favorite Sources
for Diamonds, Colored Gemstones, and Antique, Vintage & Estate Jewelry
Original Diamonds ¿
Artistic Colored Stones
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Multicolour
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FayCullen


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